JacquessonCuvée nº 733 D.T.

By leaving the Champagne on its lees for an extended period, this wine from the 2005 vintage and disgorged in 2013, has balanced out the totally crisp character of Extra Brut. It’s become rich and rounded, with equal amounts of Chardonnay and the two Pinots, Noir and Meunier. It’s an impressive, powerful wine to drink now.

This is a very special Champagne which does not serve any standards, most of all not on the complex nose whose layers I discovered over 20 minutes or more. The vinous Cuvée 733 DT comes mainly from the 2005 harvest (plus 22% of reserve wines from 2004 and 2001). It is an impressive blend of Grands and Premiers crus (52% Chardonnay, 24% Pinot Noir and 24% Meunier) aged in old foudres and attracts at least natural wine freaks. It opens quite interesting on the nose with jurassic aromas of oxidized apples, lime blossom honey, malt, dried porcini, celeries, hazelnuts, coffee, chestnuts, yellow paprika and herbs. Though it is not very precise on the nose the palate is quite unique (and oxidized), vinous, pure, very firm and very persistent and bone dry but neither fruity nor very fine while very clear, long and complex. This wine does not meet what most people require from a vintage Champagne but it surprises all those who think they know the Champagnes of Jacquesson. At least this is a debatable Champagne of very high quality although I have no idea how long this bone-dry and already somewhat drying style can age.

A heady smoke- and mineral-accented bouquet evokes ripe orchard fruits, buttered toast, iodine and chamomile. Weighty and broad on entry, then tighter in the mid-palate, offering chewy citrus and orchard fruit flavors with a touch of anise. Powerful but surprisingly light on its feet, finishing with excellent clarity and persistence and a resonating mineral quality. This Champagne is made primarily from 2005 wine, with 22% reserve wines. The dosage was 2.5 g/l.