Hamilton RussellChardonnay 2012

The 2012 Chardonnay was barrel-fermented for 9 months in small French oak barrels. It has been made the same was as the previous 30 vintages of Chardonnay, although it now benefits from 4% aging in amphora that were introduced in 2005. “Our 2011 Chardonnay was the first to have a small – and frankly irrelevant – amphorae-fermented and aged Chardonnay component of 1% and the 2012 had around 4%. Our oldest Chardonnay blocks yield less than 1.5 tons per hectare and often don’t ripen much above 12% alcohol. These small parcels can be overwhelmed by new oak and lack a little freshness if fermented and aged in old oak. Our amphorae are made of stoneware and were designed to have an air-exchange equivalent to a barrel (not far more as is mostly the case with terracotta amphorae). In the amphorae we get a wine that is fat, fresh and complex at low alcohol. We are planning to slowly acquire enough to ferment and age up to 10% of our Chardonnay this way.” The nose is more reticent than its peers, but shows great class with subtle scents of pineapple, smoke and orange zest. The palate has a lovely citric edge that is reminiscent of a fine Chassagne-Montrachet. It is imbued with wonderful poise and a gradual build in the mouth toward a poised, zesty marmalade-tinged finish that lingers long in the mouth. Excellent! Drink now-2019.

Tightly wound, this exhibits a serious core of glazed pear, fig, apple, plantain and brioche notes, lined with mineral and honeysuckle hints and accented by nicely beaded acidity. This should be a beauty when it unwinds fully. Best from 2014 through 2020.