Cantina TerlanPorphyr Lagrein Riserva Alto Adige 2013

The 2013 Lagrein Riserva Porphyr is dark, powerful and intense, as it usually is, but with less heft and overall concentration, which is not a bad thing. Raspberry jam, grilled herbs, graphite, menthol, rose petal, spice and licorice race across the palate. The 2013 is vibrant and delineated to the core. As always, the Porphyr is not an especially varietal Lagrein; rather it needs to be appreciated on its own terms. There is plenty to like, that much is certain."

If you are unfamiliar with the Lagrein grape, the 2013 Alto Adige Lagrein Riserva Porphyr offers one of the most sophisticated and complete renditions of this Northern Italian indigenous variety. The bouquet is anything but predictable. In fact, it offers an unexpected touch of rusticity with red beets, wet earth and tobacco followed by an abundance of dark fruit and ripe blackberry. Ultimately, the wines main theme is texture. The mouthfeel is dense, soft and luscious.

Pulled from vines that are nearly 100 years old, this is dense and concentrated, its bright berry flavors humming through the vanilla and spice notes it picked up from 18 months in barriques (one-third new). Left open for a couple of days, the wine develops savory notes of wood smoke, brushy herbs and root vegetables that add complexity. Drink it now for the freshness of fruit, or lay it down for a few years to let the wood flavors mellow