PenfoldsBin 51 Riesling 2023

This scintillating 2023 Riesling Bin 51 illustrates the magic to be found in the Eden Valley from this vintage. It offers up a freight train of vibrant, precise aromas as it bursts with lime juice and pith with an exotic floral lift, plus a touch of sulphur from recent bottling, which will fade quickly. There´s a beautiful compact shape, too, all tight, focused and pristine. There is fantastic power and volume of fruit to follow, with al-dente acidity providing the perfect backbone as its powers through to a long, sustained, vibrant finish. Brilliant stuff from a great year.

Ensuring that Chardonnay is not the only white variety in the Penfolds portfolio that warrants attention, this is a class act in what was a long, cool and wet growing season with lots of disease pressure. Pure, zippy and direct are the key descriptors here, the aromas like a laser beam of lemon: zest, juice, flesh and blossom. On the palate, racy acidity cuts a clean citrus seam through lime leaf, wet stones and tangy yuzu pannacotta. Great intensity and focus and, while tasty now, careful cellaring will pay dividends. Released at £31.

’23 Bin 51 has stunning purity and directness with a tenderness I haven’t seen before at this early stage of this wine’s life. Pretty, clean, lemony and chalky, there is more flesh than pith in this wine. Mesmerising and ridiculously yummy already, this is as teasing a start to a Collection tasting as I have ever experienced. Having said this, I doubt it will make 20 years, preferring to pluck this particular flower this side of a decade

The 2023 Bin 51 Riesling leads with an austere, searing nose of grilled lime, bath salts, lemon zest, crushed quartz, preserved citrus and pear skin. In the mouth, the wine is fleshy in its way and light on its feet. It´s a beautiful wine, poised without being heavy or concentrated, and there´s a cleansing finish that has a rounded feel to it. It doesn´t unfurl like the 2022 did, but it is so pretty regardless. Flowers. 11% alcohol, sealed under screw cap.