Domaine DublereChablis Grand Cru Les Preuses 2011

Tasted just two weeks after bottling, Pethel’s 2011 Chablis Preuses was harvested already on September 12, but was extremely slow in fermentation, leading to a reluctant decision (for him) to encourage completion by warming the tank into which it had been pressed. (Ironically, as has long been done in Burgundy with admirable results – even back when it was technically illegal – the must had been lightly chaptalized in the course of fermentation with the aim of extending it. In the event, the finished wine is still barely 13% alcohol.) Scents of lemon, lime, and more exotic citrus mingle with musk, white truffle, lightly toasted hazelnut and intimations of ocean breeze in an arrestingly diverse and intriguing aromatic display. The maritime and citrus allusions are realized in spades on this wine’s dense, lush palate, with pungent citrus oils and piquancy of pips spiking an amalgam of oyster liqueur and lemon juice, leading to a finish of nearly eye-watering and certainly salivary gland-milking intensity – brine, chalk, iodine, and myriad ineffable mineral elements leaving a near-indelible impression. This youthfully brash yet rich Preuses is almost sure to reveal more of the site’s alluring exoticism and continue to dazzle through at least 2025.

A classic Chablis nose features notes of oyster shell, iodine, sea water and fresh white-fleshed fruit aromas. There is fine energy and a real sense of volume to the solidly well-concentrated medium weight flavors that possess a textured mouth feel along with a subtle minerality. The dry, clean and linear finish possesses fine depth and while it is presently relatively austere, the austerity is not aggressive. A lovely Preuses.