PenfoldsYattarna Bin 144 Chardonnay 2018

A blend of Derwent and Coal River Valley in Tasmania with Henty (Victoria) and the Adelaide Hills, this is living up to its early nickname 'white Grange' as a cross-regional blend. The nose has an airy brightness, showing cooler fruit tones that are well back in the lime and lemon citrus area; some grapefruit too. This has a fine flint and chalk edge to it, as well as a subtle praline-like oak and lees influence - nicely poised. The palate is cut like a diamond, an exercise in clarity and purity; beautifully focused, elegant and yet powerful. Mouthwatering citrus and white peach fruit flavors abound and there's a scintillating thread of acidity that pins everything precisely in place. This is leading edge chardonnay at its absolute finest. Better in a couple of years but why wait.

A model of beautifully integrated components and an exercise in good measure and balance. Bright citrus and sharp struck flint grab your attention as the fruit talks confidently, underpinned by dark, savoury notes. But it’s not a simple equation: tight Tasmanian fruit is augmented by luscious white peach notes from Tumbarumba and Adelaide Hills. The oak influence bites in places, then the fruit influence surges back. It’s quite a long, undulating journey, with more poise and assurance in its youth than most Yattarna predecessors. RRP £149


Drinking Window 2020 - 2035

Viss tropisk fruktighet med ananas, apelsin och persikasötma liksom en lätt nötig hint från faten som stramas åt snyggt av den mer syrebesatta gröna äpple och limecitrusvinden som drivs fint av det mineraliska underlaget. Yattarna förnekar sig inte och har ett rent och silkigt spel i tanninerna med bra mognad och djup liksom superbt fruktfäste i ett oavkortat avslut. Det är en generös, växande och elegant årgång som både charmar med sin vitala fräschör och samtidigt ger möjlighet till utveckling i källaren 10 år framåt.

Cool-climate fruit from Tasmania, Tumbarumba and the Adelaide Hills, barrel fermented and matured eight months in 60% new French barriques, the 2018 Yattarna Chardonnay starts off with aromas of roasted nuts and toasted bread set against a backdrop of tart, citrusy fruit. Medium-bodied, there's just enough flesh to let you know this is Chardonnay—maybe a hint of underripe peach or nectarine—but this is more about line and length, with a strong backbone of acidity that drives the flavors forward into a long, mouth-puckering finish. Impressive, yes. But is it really that enjoyable? Maybe down the road, which is the intention.