El Enemigo WinesEl Enemigo Chardonnay 2013

I tasted the 2013 El Enemigo Chardonnay, which is sourced exclusively from one vineyard in Gualtallary on very chalky soils at 1,400 meters altitude. The grapes were harvested over three passes with almost one month between the first and last harvest. The full clusters were pressed and fermented in well-seasoned 500-liter oak barrels where the wine matured in contact with the lees for nine months. After that, all the lots are blended and kept in two large oak vats with more lees work for a couple of months before bottling. Only 20% of the wine went through malolactic fermentation, and some barrels developed a thin layer of yeasts similar to what you see in Jerez and the Jura, which provides for a subtle, spicy twang in the nose. That could be why the wine seems to have an extra dimension of complexity with hints of curry and spicy notes. The fruit is a mixture of white and yellow, and there are plenty of flowers, aromatic herbs and something reminiscent of talcum powder too. The palate is very lively, sharp even, with depth, penetrating flavors and very good length. Superb quality for the price. 7,000 bottles produced.

Fresh, subtle aromas of white peach, citrus zest and nuts accented by flowers and herbs. Concentrated and fine-grained, showing excellent concentration and a restrained sweetness to the flavors of stone fruits, minerals and grilled nuts; not at all dominated by oak. A subtle saline quality adds interest to this classically dry, long Chardonnay, which finishes with sneaky concentration and noteworthy energy. This held up for days in the recorked bottle without betraying any sign of heat.