Domaine ServinChablis Vieilles Vignes, Massale 2012

From a central parcel of the Pargues – and, as usual, vinified roughly half in tank, half in older barrel – the Servin 2012 Chablis Vieilles Vignes Selection Massale adds to the mysterious and mouthwatering appeal of lobster shell reduction found in the corresponding “Premier Cuvee” a Riesling-like effusion of apple and white peach as well as musky, peony-like floral perfume and subtly toasty nut oils. All of these convene on a seductively silken palate, leading to a finish of irresistible succulence and saliva inducement, subtly layering floral, fruit and mineral nuances in a manner most premier cru bottlings (including some of Servin’s) do not approach. Look for this beauty – at least part of which might not be bottled for more than a year (see my review in this report of the 2010 from tank) – to entertain and entrance through at least 2018.

This displays even more Chablis character and blind this simply couldn´t be mistaken for anything else. The textured and intense flavors possess a silky mid-palate before terminating in an almost pungent mineral-driven finish. This is an outstanding villages that is very old school in style.

Lemon, pastry, spice notes lead to an expressive core of fruit with slightly tropical overtones. Partial aging in oak gives the 2012 Chablis Vieilles Vignes Massale much of its volume, breadth and creaminess. Despite its mostly seamless texture, there is plenty of underlying structure supporting the fruit.

Lovely lift and precision to the aromas of lemon, lime and peppery herbs. Supple, ripe and nicely concentrated, with a tactile saline quality to the flavors of underripe pineapple and citrus zest. Finishes with very good grip and mineral-driven length.